Sticking, rubbing, and won't-latch doors - plus off-track closet and pocket doors - realigned, rehung, and moving smoothly again in a single visit.
A door that sticks, drags on the frame, or won't stay latched is one of those daily annoyances that's easy to live with and easy to fix - once you know what's actually wrong. Most door problems trace back to just a few causes: hinges that have loosened over time, a strike plate that no longer lines up with the latch, or a frame that has shifted as the house settled. Summer heat swells wood doors across Valencia and Saugus, and dry Santa Clarita winters shrink them back, so a door that binds in July can rattle loose by January. We diagnose the real cause and correct it, rather than just shaving wood off until it stops rubbing.
A door that rubs the frame along the top corner, scrapes the floor, or shows an uneven gap down the latch side is out of alignment - almost always because the top hinge has loosened. The weight of the door pulls it away from the frame, and the bottom corner swings into the floor. We tighten or replace the stripped hinge screws with 3-inch screws that bite into the wall framing, which pulls the door back square. If the frame itself has shifted, we shim the hinges or reset the strike so the gap is even all the way around.
Closet doors take more abuse than any other door in the house, and they fail in predictable ways: a bifold that jumps its track, a sliding mirror door that grinds or drops off its rollers, a pivot pin that's worn through, or a bottom guide that's snapped. Most of these are hardware fixes - new rollers, pivots, guides, or track - rather than a new door. We replace the worn parts, adjust the height so the doors meet evenly, and make sure they glide without catching.
Pocket doors are hard to fix yourself because the track lives inside the wall. Common problems are a door that's come off its track, rollers that have worn flat, a door that drags because it's dropped on its hangers, or a door that won't slide all the way into the wall because something is in the way - often a nail or screw driven through the wall into the pocket. Many of these can be fixed by removing the trim and lifting the door off its hangers; a bent or broken track can mean opening the wall. We'll tell you which it is before any drywall comes off.
Want to try a fix yourself first? Our guides on fixing a sticking door, a door that won't latch, and a closet door that's off its track cover the most common DIY repairs.
We open and close the door, check the hinges, gaps, and strike plate, and figure out whether it's the door, the hinges, or a shifted frame - then quote it free up front.
Often the fix is right at the hinges: we reset loose or stripped screws, add longer screws into the framing where needed, and square the door back up in its opening.
We move or file the strike plate so the latch catches cleanly, and where the door truly binds we plane the edge just enough for an even, consistent gap.
If a hinge, handle, or lockset is worn out we replace it, and for exterior doors we can add or renew weatherstripping so it closes tight against drafts and dust.
Before/after photos of real Santa Clarita door repairs will appear here.
Most door problems are a single, same-visit repair - realigning hinges, adjusting a strike plate, or swapping a handle rarely takes long. Pricing depends on whether it's a quick adjustment or a full hardware replacement, and whether we're working on one door or several. We give a firm, free quote up front, so there are no hourly surprises. If you've got a door that binds in the heat, our guide on how to fix a sticking door covers what you can try yourself before calling us - and bundling a few small door fixes into one visit is always the most cost-effective way to go.
We provide door repair throughout the SCV:
Quick answers before you book
Wood doors absorb moisture and swell when it's humid, then shrink back when the air dries out. In the Santa Clarita Valley the bigger culprit is often heat and a frame that has shifted slightly with the house. We check whether it's seasonal swelling or a real alignment problem, so we don't shave a door that only binds a few months a year.
Yes - and it's usually a fast fix. Nine times out of ten the latch and the strike plate no longer line up because the hinges or frame have moved. We reposition or file the strike plate so the latch catches cleanly, no new hardware required in most cases.
We repair and rehang exterior doors, swap out worn locksets and hinges, and add weatherstripping to seal drafts. Full slab-and-frame door replacement is something we'll assess on-site and quote for you honestly - sometimes a repair is all you need, and we'll tell you when it isn't.
Yes. Rubbing is usually a loose top hinge letting the door sag, and the fix is longer hinge screws into the framing - no planing required. We only plane the edge when the door has actually swollen or the frame is out of square.
Yes. We repair bifold, sliding, and pocket doors - replacing rollers, pivots, guides, and tracks, and rehanging doors that have come off their track. For pocket doors we try to work through the opening first, and only open the wall if the track itself is damaged.
Most repairs - realigning hinges, adjusting a latch, replacing a handle - are done in a single visit, often within an hour. Planing a binding edge or fitting new hardware takes a little longer, and we'll give you a clear time and price before we start.
Get a free quote today - most sticking, sagging, and won't-latch doors are a single, same-visit fix.