New disposals installed, dead or leaking units swapped out - sealed, wired, and plumbed right the first time.
A garbage disposal touches three systems at once - plumbing, the dishwasher drain, and electrical - which is why a "quick swap" so often turns into a wet cabinet floor. We install new disposals where there wasn't one before and replace units that have jammed, started leaking, or simply died. Every install gets a fresh plumber's-putty seal at the sink flange, a proper mounting-ring assembly, the dishwasher drain connected correctly, and the wiring done to code, then we run water and watch for leaks before we call it done.
We check what's under the sink - the existing plumbing, whether the old unit is hardwired or plug-in, the shape of the sink flange, and whether a dishwasher ties in - then give you a clear, free quote and help you match the horsepower to how you actually cook.
We kill the power at the breaker, drop the old unit, and clean every trace of old putty off the sink flange. A new disposal is only as leak-free as its flange seal, so we bed the flange in fresh plumber's putty and set it clean.
We assemble the mounting ring, hang the unit, and fit the discharge tube to the P-trap. If a dishwasher drains through the disposal, we knock out the plug in the inlet first (the step most DIY installs forget) and clamp the drain hose.
We complete the electrical hookup - hardwire or plug-in, whichever your setup uses - then run water under load and watch the flange, the discharge, and the dishwasher line for any weep before we hand it back.
Photos of real Santa Clarita garbage disposal installs will appear here.
Most installs and swaps are a single, same-visit job. Pricing depends on whether you're replacing an existing unit or running a disposal to that sink for the first time, whether a dishwasher needs to be tied in, and whether the outlet needs a plug-in cord kit versus a hardwired connection. We quote it free up front - no hourly surprises. If you're on the fence about repairing versus replacing, start with the disposal itself: a unit that just hums is usually jammed, not dead (here's why a humming disposal that won't spin is often a quick fix), while chronic leaks and a tripping reset button usually mean it's time for a new one.
We install and replace garbage disposals throughout the SCV:
Quick answers before you book
Usually not. A hum with no spinning almost always means something is wedged against the impellers and the motor is stalled. Freeing the jam from below with the hex wrench and pressing the red reset button brings most of them back to life. If it still won't turn, trips the reset again right away, or leaks at the same time, then replacement is the smart call.
Yes. If your dishwasher drains through the disposal, we knock out the plug in the disposal's inlet before connecting - miss that step and the dishwasher backs up or won't drain at all - then clamp the drain hose so it stays sealed.
Yes. We handle the electrical hookup either way: a hardwired connection into the existing box, or a plug-in cord kit if your setup uses a switched outlet under the sink. We'll tell you which yours needs when we look.
For a light-use kitchen, a 1/3 or 1/2 HP unit is plenty. If you cook often, run a lot through it, or have a larger household, a 3/4 HP disposal grinds faster and jams less; 1 HP is worth it for heavy daily use. We'll match the size to how you actually use the kitchen rather than overselling.
Get a free quote today - most installs and replacements are a single, same-visit job.